2. Car stands, adjustable in height and with a permissible load of at least 2 tons. It is advisable to have four such stands.
3. Wheel chocks (at least 2 pcs.).
4. Double-ended wrenches for 8 and 10 mm brake system nipples. The two most common types of such wrenches are a clamp wrench and a slotted open-end wrench. The clamping key allows you to unscrew fittings with worn edges. In order to put the key on the brake pipe nipple, it is necessary to unscrew the clamping bolt. A slotted open-end wrench allows you to complete the job more quickly, but such a wrench must be made of high-quality steel with appropriate heat treatment.
5. Special key for 22 mm (socket or end) to unscrew the oxygen concentration sensor.
6. Flat ratchet with removable tips. Can be used in hard to reach places as a flat reversible screwdriver.
7. Snap ring removers. There are two types of such pullers: for extracting retaining rings from holes and for removing retaining rings from shafts, axles, rods. Pullers also come with straight and curved jaws.
8. Special pliers for installing clamps for protective covers of constant velocity joints (CV joints).
9. Puller for pressing out ball joint pins and steering rod ends.
10. Oil filter remover.
11. Universal three-jaw pullers for removing pulleys, bearings, gears.
12. Hose remover.
13. Universal cup puller for extracting and pressing in hub bearings and rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) levers.
14. Puller and mandrel for replacing oil scraper caps.
15. Valve spring compressor for removing the valve timing system.
16. Remover of upholstery holders (pistons).
17. Tweezers.
18. Suspension spring compression clamps.
19. Impact screwdriver with a set of bits.
20. Digital multimeter (tester) for checking the parameters of electrical circuits.
21. A special 12V probe or test lamp for checking the electrical circuits of the vehicle that are under voltage.
22. Tire pressure gauge (if there is no pressure gauge on the tire pump).
23. Pressure gauge for measuring pressure in the engine fuel rail.
24. Pressure gauge for checking the pressure in the engine lubrication system.
25. Compression gauge for checking the pressure in the engine cylinders.
26. Bore gauge for measuring the diameter of cylinders.
27. Caliper with depth gauge.
28. Micrometers with a measurement range of 25-50 mm and 50-75 mm.
29. A set of flat feeler gauges for measuring gaps when assessing the technical condition of units.
30. Mandrel for centering the driven clutch disc.
31. Mandrel for crimping piston rings when installing the piston in the cylinder.
32. Hydrometer for measuring liquid density (electrolyte in the battery or antifreeze in the expansion tank).
33. A special device with metal brushes for cleaning wire terminals and battery posts.
34. A magnet on a telescopic or flexible pointer for extracting small metal objects from hard-to-reach places.
35. Oil syringe for adding oil to transmission unit crankcases.
Note: To fill the transmission units with oil, instead of an oil syringe, you can use a funnel with a 50-60 cm long plastic tube attached to it.
36. Hose with a bulb for pumping fuel. Hoses can be used to drain fuel from the tank before removing it.
37. Medical syringe or bulb for collecting liquids (for example, when it is necessary to remove the brake master cylinder reservoir without draining all the brake fluid from the system).
38. Technical stethoscope for troubleshooting the engine and its attachments based on noise.
39. Technical hair dryer (heat gun). Necessary for heating parts during assembly and disassembly (for example, heat shrink tubing when repairing electrical wiring).
40. Household steelyard.
41. Clamps.
42. When performing the work, you may also need: a tape measure, a wide metalworking ruler, a wide container for draining oil and coolant with a capacity of at least 10 liters.