| Cause of malfunction | Methods of elimination |
| The clutch is slipping (when you press the gas pedal sharply, the engine revs up, but the car barely accelerates) | |
| Oiling of the flywheel, pressure plate and friction linings of the clutch driven disc | Wash the oily surfaces thoroughly with white spirit or gasoline and wipe them dry. Replace a heavily oiled driven disk. Eliminate the cause of the oiling (oil leak through engine or gearbox seals) |
| Reducing the force of the diaphragm spring | Replace the housing with the pressure plate assembly ("basket") |
| Severe wear or burning of the friction linings of the driven disk | Replace the slave disk assembly |
| The clutch master cylinder piston slowly returns to its original position due to swelling of the rubber seals | Replace the seals or the cylinder assembly. If you suspect gasoline or other solvents have entered the clutch fluid, replace it |
| The clutch is leading (forward gear shifting is difficult, reverse gear shifts with noise even though the gearbox is in good working order) | |
| Incorrect adjustment of the clutch drive (the full pedal travel is small, its free travel is increased) | Adjust the drive |
| Air got into the hydraulic drive system (the pedal is "soft") | Tighten the connections, bleed the system. If there is a leak from the master or slave cylinder, replace their seals or cylinder assemblies |
| The check valve of the clutch master cylinder is faulty | Disassemble the master cylinder, wash and clean the parts. Replace the faulty valve |
| Clutch release fork shaft jammed in bushings | Replace the grease in the bushings or the bushings themselves |
| Loose rivets or broken friction linings, warping of the driven disk (end runout more than 0.5 mm) | Replace the slave disk |
| Severe and uneven wear, scoring on the working surfaces of the flywheel or clutch pressure plate | Replace the flywheel. If the surface of the pressure plate is damaged, replace the housing with the pressure plate assembly (clutch "basket") |
| Misalignment or warping of the pressure plate | Replace the housing with the pressure plate assembly (clutch "basket") |
| Seizure of the driven disk hub on the splines of the gearbox input shaft | Clean the splines from dirt, remove minor damage with a file. If the splines are significantly worn or damaged, replace the disc and/or the primary shaft of the gearbox. Apply SHRUS-4 grease to the splines before assembly |
| The clutch does not disengage (the pedal "falls through") | |
| Air in the hydraulic drive system | Tighten the connections, bleed the system. If there is a leak from the master or slave cylinder, replace their seals or cylinder assemblies |
| The clutch does not disengage (the pedal "falls through"). The clutch can only be briefly disengaged by pressing the pedal sharply | |
| Severe wear, defects of the master cylinder mirror; dirt in the cylinder | Replace the cylinder |
| Worn or defective master cylinder seal | Replace the cylinder assembly |
| Jerks when starting off | |
| Seizure of the driven disk hub on the splines of the gearbox input shaft | Clean the splines from dirt, remove minor damage with a file. If the splines are significantly worn or damaged, replace the disc and/or the primary shaft of the gearbox. Apply fresh SHRUS-4 grease to the splines before assembly |
| Deformation of the driven disk | Replace the slave disk |
| Loose fastening of the friction linings of the driven disk, severe wear or cracks on the linings | Replace the slave disk |
| Loss of elasticity of the spring plates of the driven disk | Replace the slave disk |
| Significant subsidence or breakage of the torsional vibration damper springs, wear of the windows under the springs | Replace the slave disk |
| Scoring on the working surfaces of the flywheel or pressure plate | Replace the flywheel or clutch housing with the pressure plate assembly (clutch "basket") |
| Oiling of the working surfaces of the friction linings of the driven disk | Wash the oily surfaces thoroughly with white spirit or gasoline and wipe them dry. Replace a heavily oiled driven disk. Eliminate the cause of the oiling |
| Cause of malfunction | Methods of elimination |
| Rattling, knocking or noise when engaging the clutch | |
| Significant subsidence or breakage of the torsional vibration damper springs, wear of the windows under the springs | Replace the slave disk |
| Deformation of the driven disk | Replace the slave disk |
| Loose fastening of the friction linings of the driven disk, severe wear or cracks on the linings | Replace the slave disk |
| Increased noise when disengaging the clutch | |
| Clutch release bearing worn, damaged or leaking grease | Replace the bearing |
| After releasing the clutch pedal, it does not return to its original position | |
| Air in the hydraulic drive system | Bleed the system, tighten the connections |
| The pedal return spring has lost its elasticity or is broken | Replace the spring |
| Noise in the gearbox (the noise decreases or disappears when the clutch is depressed) | |
| Insufficient oil level in the gearbox housing | Check the level, top up if necessary. Check for leaks (see "Gearbox oil leak"). Blow out the breather |
| Low quality oil. Water got into the oil (when water gets into oil, a whitish emulsion is formed) | Change the oil |
| Wear or damage to bearings, gear teeth | Replace worn bearings, gears |
| Gears are difficult to shift, no extraneous noises | |
| The gearbox control rod is deformed | Straighten or replace the rod |
| Gear shift mechanism parts are deformed | Replace damaged parts |
| The transmission control rod end terminal clamp bolt is loose | Adjust the drive and tighten the bolt |
| Incorrect adjustment of the gearbox control drive | Adjust the drive |
| Wear of outer joints of gear shift rods | Replace the defective parts or replace the entire mechanism |
| Wear, loosening of gear shift fork seats | Gearbox repair |
| The clutch does not disengage completely | See Clutch Fault Diagnosis |
| Gears disengage spontaneously | |
| Damage or wear to splines on clutch, gear or synchronizer hub | Replace defective parts |
| Incorrect drive adjustment | Adjust the drive |
| The powertrain mounts have lost their elasticity or have been destroyed | Replace the supports |
| Noise, crackling, screeching of gears when the gear is engaged | |
| No oil in gearbox sump | Add oil. Check for leaks (see "Transmission Oil Leak"). Blow out the breather |
| The clutch does not disengage completely | See Clutch Fault Diagnosis |
| Bearings and gear teeth are damaged | Replace bearings, gears |
| Wear of the synchronizer ring of the gear being engaged | Replace the synchronizer ring |
| Final drive noise (noise from the gearbox only when the car is moving) | |
| Wear or failure of bearings | Replace damaged and worn secondary shaft and differential bearings. Adjust differential box bearing preload |
| Gearbox oil leak | |
| Wear of seals: primary shaft, CV joints, wear of the speed sensor drive shaft seal | Replace the seals. Blow out the gearbox breather |
| The bolts securing the gearbox covers and housings have become loose, and the gaskets between their mating surfaces are damaged | Tighten the threaded connections. Replace the gaskets |
| Knocking when starting off | |
| Wear of the wheel drive joints | Replace worn out hinges |
| Wear of the rubber element of the shock absorber support, rubber-metal hinges (silent blocks) and suspension arm cushions, stabilizer bar struts | Replace worn parts |
| The anti-roll bar mounts to the body, silent blocks and suspension arm cushions, and strut support have become loose | Tighten the threaded connections |
| The shock absorber of the rack is faulty | Replace both shock absorbers |
| Severe wear of the front wheel hub bearing or loosening of the hub bearing nut | Tighten the wheel bearing nut, replace the bearing if necessary |
| Suspension spring failure | Replace the spring (it is better to replace both suspension springs at once - left and right) |
| Brake lining separation from the base of the shoe | Replace the pads (all at once on one axis) |
| The powertrain mounts have lost their elasticity or have been destroyed | Replace the supports |
| Clutch faulty | See Clutch Fault Diagnosis |
| Noise when driving a car on a smooth highway | |
| Wear of wheel hub bearings | Replace the bearings |
| The tires are not designed for these operating conditions (on asphalt, all-terrain, studded tires, etc. are used.) | Use tires according to their intended purpose |
| High speed in corners | Reduce speed before turning |
| Uneven wear or tread separation, deformation of the tire, rim | Replace the wheel |
| The wheel is touching the fender liner | Check the wheel alignment angles, replace deformed suspension parts and sagging springs if necessary. Do not overload the car. Use standard size wheel rims |
| Brake components are rubbing against the brake disc/drum | Disassemble the unit, replace defective parts |
| The wheel mounting bolts have come loose | Tighten the bolts; if the wheel rim is deformed, replace the rim |
| Brake lining separation from the base of the shoe | Replace the pads (all at once on one axis) |
| Knocking when driving over small bumps | |
| The shock absorber or shock absorber strut support is faulty | Replace both shock absorbers or the shock absorber strut support |
| Ball joint wear | Replace the ball joint or the control arm assembly with the support |
| Wear of anti-roll bar struts | Replace stabilizer links |
| Knocking, creaking sounds when the suspension is operating (off-road driving) | |
| Overloading the car | Do not overload the vehicle. Distribute the load evenly (use the salon) |
| The shock absorber is faulty | Replace both shock absorbers |
| Compression buffer is broken | Replace the buffer |
| Settling or breakage of the suspension spring | Replace both springs - left and right |
| Destruction or subsidence of the shock absorber support | Replace the support |
| The suspension arms, anti-roll bar, steering rods, and rear suspension beam are bent. The fastening of these parts has become loose | Check whether the steering rods touch the windows in the mudguards when the suspension is in operation at extreme wheel positions. Straighten or replace any deformed parts. Tighten the threaded connections |
| Wear of ball joints and silent blocks of the front suspension | Replace worn parts |
| The steering wheel, steering column bracket, steering gear, rack stop plug, steering rod ball joints, and lower flange mounting bolt of the elastic coupling on the pinion shaft have become loose | Tighten the threaded connections, adjust the clearance in the steering mechanism |
| Traces of shock absorber fluid are visible on the shock absorber | |
| Fluid leak from shock absorber (due to wear of the rod seal, nicks and damage to the chrome coating of the rod) | Minor "sweating" of the shock absorber in the upper part while maintaining its characteristics is not a malfunction. You can check the shock absorbers by rocking the car. No more than 1-2 free vibrations of the car are allowed. Replace the faulty shock absorber |
| Traces of joint grease are visible on the hinge boot and/or the wheel drive shaft | |
| The protective cover of the hinge is damaged, its clamps are loose | Inspect the hinge, if there is any play, replace it. If there is no play and there is a little dirt in the grease, without disassembling the hinge, remove as much grease as possible from it and put in new grease. Replace the damaged cover, clamps |
| Knocking, clicking when turning the car | |
| Outer joint wear of the wheel drive | Replace the hinge |
| Wheel axial play (severe wear of the wheel hub bearing or loosening of the hub bearing nut) | Tighten the wheel bearing nut, replace the bearing if necessary |
| Wear of the upper shock absorber strut support bearing, rubber support element | Replace the support |
| The wheel mounting bolts have come loose | Tighten the bolts; if the wheel rim is deformed, replace the rim |
| Suspension spring failure | Replace both suspension springs - left and right |
| The anti-roll bar mounts to the body, the silent blocks of the suspension arms, and the strut support have become loose | Tighten the threaded connections |
| The steering wheel, steering column bracket, steering gear, rack stop plug, and steering rod ball joints have become loose | Tighten the threaded connections, adjust the clearance in the steering mechanism |
| Cause of malfunction | Methods of elimination |
| Vibration when driving a car | |
| Increased wheel imbalance | Balance the wheels |
| Uneven wear or tread separation, deformation of the tire, rim | Replace the wheel |
| The shock absorber is faulty | Replace both shock absorbers on the axle |
| Severe wear of the wheel drive joints | Replace worn out hinges |
| Deformation of the drive shaft of the wheels | Replace the shaft or drive assembly |
| Wheel axial play (severe wear of the wheel hub bearing or loosening of the hub bearing nut) | Tighten the wheel bearing nut, replace the bearing if necessary |
| The mounting of the levers, suspension, anti-roll bar, and steering rods has become loose | Tighten the threaded connections |
| Vehicle deviation from straight-line motion (on a flat road) | |
| Uneven air pressure in tires | Set the pressure to normal |
| Violation of the longitudinal tilt angles of the steering axis and/or camber of the front wheels | Check and repair front suspension and body parts |
| Significant difference in tire wear | Replace a worn tire |
| Uneven front suspension spring sag | Replace both springs |
| Suspension and/or car body parts are deformed | Straighten or replace deformed body parts and panels |
| Rear axle offset due to wear of rear suspension beam silent blocks | Replace the silent blocks |
| Wheel braking due to wheel cylinder piston jamming | Replace the cylinder |
| Front wheel drag due to loosening of the bolts securing the brake shoe guide to the steering knuckle (caliper is displaced) | Tighten the bolts |
| Rear wheel drag due to weakening or breakage of the rear brake pad tension spring | Replace the spring |
| Increased imbalance of the front wheels | Balance the wheels |
| Rapid wear of tire tread | |
| High speed, starts with wheel slippage, skidding braking, cornering with skidding or understeer | Observe normal speed limits |
| Tire pressure is different from the norm | Set the pressure to normal |
| The front wheel alignment angles are incorrect | Check and repair front suspension and body parts |
| Exposure of the tread to materials that are aggressive towards rubber - bitumen, oil, gasoline, solvents, acids, etc. | Replace the tire |
| Uneven tire tread wear | |
| Increased wheel imbalance | Balance the wheels |
| Deformation of tire, rim | Replace the wheel |
| Different tire pressures | Set the pressure to normal |
| The front wheel alignment angles are incorrect | Check and repair front suspension and body parts |
| High speed movement in turns, passing them with skidding or demolition of wheels | Observe normal speed limits |
| Wheel axial play (severe wear of the wheel hub bearing or loosening of the hub bearing nut) | Tighten the wheel bearing nut, replace the bearing if necessary |
| Wear of joints, deformation of suspension or body parts | Replace hinges, deformed suspension parts, side members, body panels |
| Steering play (see also "Excessive steering wheel play") | Replace worn joints, tighten threaded connections, adjust the clearance between the pinion and rack in the steering mechanism |
| The shock absorber is faulty | Replace both shock absorbers |
| Increased steering wheel free play | |
| The tightening of the nuts securing the ball joints of the outer rod ends has become loose | Tighten the nuts |
| Increased clearance in ball joints, wear of rubber-metal joints of rods | Replace the tie rod ends |
| Large gap between rack stop and nut | Adjust the clearance in the steering gear |
| The steering wheel is hard to turn | |
| The power steering is faulty | Replace the power steering pump or steering gear |
| The upper support bearing of the front suspension strut is damaged | Replace the support |
| The support bushing or the rack stop is damaged | Replace damaged parts, add grease |
| Low tire pressure in front wheels | Set the pressure to normal |
| The steering rod joints are damaged | Replace the tie rod ends |
| The steering gear pinion shaft bearings are damaged | Replace the bearings |
| Squeaking, squealing when braking | |
| Maximum wear of brake linings | Replace the brake pads (all at once on one axis) |
| Inclusion of foreign particles (sand) in the lining material | Usually does not require intervention (you can clean the linings with a wire brush) |
| Low quality of the overlay material | Replace the pads (all at once on one axis) |
| Severe corrosion of the brake disc (due to poor quality of the disc material and/or lining) | Replace brake discs |
| The brake shoe lining has separated from the base | Replace the pads (all at once on one axis) |
| The rear brake shoe tension spring is weak or broken | Replace the spring |
| Braking with wheel lock | Do not over-brake, use tires appropriate to the driving conditions |
| Vibration when braking | |
| Brake disc deformation | Replace both drives |
| Increased axial play of the wheel (severe wear of the wheel hub bearing or loosening of the hub bearing nut) | Tighten the wheel bearing nut, replace the bearing if necessary |
| Brake drum ovality | Replace drum |
| The piston in the rear wheel cylinder is jammed | Replace the cylinder |
| The brake shoe lining has separated from the base | Replace the pads (all at once on one axis) |
| The rear brake shoe tension spring is weak or broken | Replace the spring |
| Car drifting or skidding when braking | |
| Wheel cylinder piston jamming | Replace the cylinder |
| Blockage of brake lines: tubes or hoses | Replace damaged tubes and hoses |
| Peeling of the lining from the base of the brake shoe | Replace the pads (better to have everything on one axis at the same time) |
| Oiling of brake discs, drums, linings | Clean oily discs and drums, replace pads. Eliminate the cause of oiling |
| Ice or salt crust formed on the surface of the pads (in winter). The pads got wet | At the start of the movement, at low speed, check the brakes. In the rain and after driving through deep puddles, dry the brakes by lightly pressing the brake pedal |
| Different tire pressure on left and right wheels | Set the pressure to normal |
| Significant difference in tire wear | Replace a worn tire |
| The pressure regulator is faulty | Replace the regulator |
| One of the circuits of the service brake system is not working (braking efficiency is significantly reduced) | Fix the brake fluid leak, bleed the system |
| Brake disc deformation | Replace both drives |
| Wheel axial play (severe wear of front wheel bearings or loosening of hub bearing nut) | Tighten the wheel bearing nut, replace the bearing if necessary |
| Brake drum ovality | Replace drum |
| The shock absorber of the rack is faulty | Replace both shock absorbers |
| Uneven front suspension spring sag | Replace both springs |
| Wheel alignment angles are incorrect | Check and repair front suspension and body parts |
| Increased brake pedal travel (pedal is "soft" or "falls through") | |
| Air in the brake system, brake fluid leakage through leaks in hydraulic drive connections, damage to the cuffs in the master brake cylinder, sealing rings in the pressure regulator, damage to brake pipes and hoses | Inspect all lines, their threaded connections and cylinders, eliminate leaks. Restore the normal fluid level in the brake reservoir and bleed the system. If damage to the brake hoses is detected (cracks, bulges or traces of brake fluid) replace the hoses. If you suspect defects in the master brake cylinder, replace it with a working one |
| The rubber seals of the cylinders swelled due to oil, gasoline, etc. getting into the brake fluid. | Replace cylinders, hoses, completely drain brake fluid, flush the system with fresh fluid and bleed |
| Overheating of brake mechanisms | Allow the brakes to cool. Use only DOT-4 brake fluids in the system. Replace the brake fluid on time |
| Increased clearance between the pads and the drum (the automatic gap adjustment device does not work) | Replace the automatic clearance adjustment mechanism components |
| One of the circuits of the service brake system is not working | Fix the brake fluid leak, bleed the system |
| Increased (more than 0.1 mm) brake disc runout | Replace both drives |
| Cause of malfunction | Methods of elimination |
| The brake pedal travel is within normal limits (the pedal is "hard"), but the car brakes poorly | |
| Wheel cylinder piston jamming | Replace the cylinder |
| Blockage of brake lines: tubes (because of dents) or hoses (due to swelling or delamination of the rubber) | Replace damaged tubes and hoses |
| Oiling of brake discs, drums, linings | Clean oily discs and drums, replace pads. Eliminate the cause of oiling |
| Complete wear of brake linings (brakes grinding) | Replace the brake pads (all at once on one axis) |
| Ice or salt crust formed on the surface of the pads (in winter). The pads got wet | At the start of the movement, at low speed, check the brakes. In the rain and after driving through deep puddles, dry the brakes by lightly pressing the brake pedal |
| Low quality of the pad material | Replace the pads (all at once on one axis) |
| Severe corrosion of the brake disc (due to poor quality of the disc material and/or lining) | Replace the disks |
| The brake shoe lining has separated from the base | Replace the pads (all at once on one axis) |
| The pressure regulator is faulty | Replace both regulators |
| The vacuum booster is faulty or the hose connecting the booster to the intake manifold is leaky | Check the integrity of the hose, its fit on the fittings, the tightening of the clamps. Check the operation of the amplifier |
| Incomplete release of braking of all wheels | |
| There is no free travel of the brake pedal | Adjust the pedal free play |
| The rubber seals of the cylinders swelled due to oil, gasoline, etc. getting into the brake fluid. | Replace cylinders, hoses, completely drain brake fluid, flush the system with fresh fluid and bleed |
| The master cylinder piston is stuck (due to corrosion, breakage of return springs) | Replace the master cylinder, bleed the system |
| Braking of one of the wheels with the brake pedal released | |
| Wheel cylinder piston jamming | Replace the cylinder |
| The rubber seals of the cylinders swelled due to oil, gasoline, etc. getting into the brake fluid. | Replace cylinders, hoses, completely drain brake fluid, flush the system with fresh fluid and bleed |
| Blockage of brake lines: tubes (because of dents) or hoses (due to swelling or delamination of the rubber) | Replace damaged tubes and hoses |
| Seizure of brake pads due to severe contamination of the caliper support surfaces | Remove the pads, clean the bearing surfaces of the pads and the caliper |
| Rear brake shoe lining delamination | Replace the pads (all at once on one axis) |
| The rear brake shoe tension spring is weak or broken | Replace the spring |
| The brake shoe guide to the steering knuckle has become loose | Tighten the bolts |
| Insufficient efficiency of the parking brake system | |
| Incorrect drive adjustment | Adjust the drive |
| Drive cables are jammed in the sheaths | Lubricate the cables with engine oil; if the sheath is damaged or the cable wires are frayed, and if there is severe corrosion, replace the cable |
| Brake drums and linings are oily | Clean oily discs and drums, replace pads. Eliminate the cause of oiling |
| Ice or salt crust formed on the surface of the pads (in winter). The pads got wet | Check the brakes at low speed when starting to move. In the rain and after driving through deep puddles, dry the brakes by lightly pressing the brake pedal |
| Excessive wear of brake pads and drums on the rear wheels | Replace the pads and drums |
| When the parking brake lever is released, the wheels are not released | |
| Incorrect drive adjustment | Adjust the drive |
| The parking brake is overtightened, the cables are jammed in the sheaths | Adjust the tension of the cables, lubricate them with engine oil, if the sheath is damaged or the cable wires are frayed, and if there is severe corrosion, replace the cable |
| After the car had been parked for a long time, the brake pads stuck (or frozen) to the drum | When pulling the lever or cables, try to carefully (to avoid damaging the brake pads) turn the wheel. When parking the car, if possible, do not apply the brakes, but engage the gear |
The article is reprinted from the website: «chevyman.ru»