Note: Before removing the pistons and connecting rods, remove the cylinder heads, oil pan and oil pump following the instructions in the appropriate sections in parts 2.1 chapter 2.
1. Use your finger to determine if a protrusion has formed at the upper limit of the ring travel (approximately 1/4 inch below the top of each cylinder). If such protrusions are present due to carbon deposits or cylinder wear, they must be removed using a special tool (see illustration). Follow the manufacturer's instructions supplied with the tool. Attempting to remove the pistons and connecting rods without removing the tabs may result in damage to the pistons.
13.1 A special protrusion removal tool is required to remove the protrusion at the top of each cylinder; do this before removing the pistons
2. After removing the protrusions on the cylinder, turn the engine over so that the crankshaft is on top.
3. Before removing the connecting rods, measure the axial clearance using feeler gauges. Insert various feeler gauges between the first connecting rod and the crankshaft crank until the play disappears (see illustration). The axial clearance is equal to the thickness of the last feeler gauge. If the axial clearance exceeds the permissible limit, the connecting rods must be replaced. If new connecting rods were installed (or a new crankshaft), the end gap may be less than the minimum allowable clearance specified in this chapter. In this case, it is necessary to process the connecting rods to restore the clearance - if necessary, consult an auto repair shop. Repeat this procedure for the remaining connecting rods.
13.3. Check the connecting rod axial clearance using feeler gauges as indicated
4. Check for marks on the connecting rod caps. If the marks are not clearly visible, use a center punch (see illustration) apply the appropriate identification numbers to each connecting rod and cap (1, 2, 3, etc. depending on the cylinder they belong to).
13.4. Label the connecting rod bearing caps starting from the front of the engine and moving to the rear (one mark for the front cover, two for the second cover, and so on)
5. Loosen each connecting rod cap nut one at a time by 1/2 turn until they can be turned by hand. Remove the cover and bearing shell of the first connecting rod. Do not drop the bearing shell from the cover.
6. Place a length of rubber or plastic hose over each connecting rod cap bolt to protect the crankshaft journal and cylinder walls when removing the piston (see illustration).
13.6. To prevent damage to the crankshaft journals and cylinder walls, place sections of rubber or plastic hoses on the connecting rod bolts before removing the pistons
7. Remove the bearing shell and push the piston and connecting rod assembly out through the holes in the top of the engine. Apply pressure with a wooden or plastic hammer handle to the top surface of the connecting rod bearing. If you feel resistance, you should check again whether the protrusion on the cylinder has been completely removed.
8. Repeat this procedure for the remaining cylinders.
9. After disassembly is complete, install the connecting rod bearing caps and shells onto their connecting rods and hand-tighten the nuts onto the caps. You can leave the old bearing shells in place until assembly begins, as this will protect the connecting rod bearing surfaces from accidental scratches or damage.
10. Do not separate the pistons from the connecting rods (see additional information in section 18).