2. The most likely causes of valve noise are dirt trapped in the valve lifter, as well as poor oil circulation, low viscosity or insufficient pressure. Therefore, before proceeding with the removal of the valve, check the oil for the presence of fuel in it, find out if its purity and viscosity meet the specifications and, if necessary, add it to the desired level.
Withdrawal
3. Remove the valve cover and intake manifold (see sections 4 and 5).
4. Remove rocker arms and rods (see section 6).
5. There are several ways to remove pushers from the hole. You can use a special puller that allows you to grab and remove the pusher, but you can often do without it. On late-model, low-carbon engines, the tappets can often be reached with a small magnet or even with your fingers. You can also use a bench scriber with a bent end: its tip is brought under the retaining ring located above the pusher (see illustrations).
10.5a. You can remove the pushers using a device with a magnet... | 10.5b... or scribers with a curved end |
Attention! If you do not intend to replace pushrods (along with the camshaft) new parts, do not use tongs to remove them. Moiyi tongs will damage the precision-machined and hardened pushers, rendering them unusable.
6. Before removing the valve lifters, prepare a box with marked cells for storage so that when assembling the assembly, do not confuse their installation locations. After removing the pushers, store them in a place inaccessible to dirt (see illustration).
Note. Some engines can be fitted with factory fitted tappets, both standard and 0.010" oversized (0.25 mm) repair sizes. On the cylinder block of such engines there is a corresponding marking (see illustration).
10.6a. Storing the pushers in a box like the one shown in the photo will give you the opportunity to install them in the same places from where they were removed | 10.6b. If your car's engine was factory fitted with oversized tappets, the tappet bosses will be marked with a smear of overprinted white paint "0,25 (mm) OS" |
Status check and installation
7. Valve lifter parts are not sold separately. The effort expended on re-removing them from the engine 8 if their cleaning did not give a positive effect is more expensive than the potential savings from repairing them.
8. Wash the tappets with solvent and dry thoroughly, being careful not to confuse them.
9. Check the walls, bases and seats of all push rods for signs of abrasion, scoring and uneven wear (see illustrations). If the pusher walls are damaged or worn (which is unlikely), also check the tappet holes in the cylinder block. If the rod seats are worn, check the condition of the rod tips.
10.9a. At the top of each pusher, check the rod seat (shown by arrow) for no wear | 10.9b. If the bottom (base) pusher is worn with the formation of a depression, replace such a pusher assembly |
10.9c. The base of the pusher should be slightly convex; to check for a bulge, you can use another pusher by applying its side surface to the base of the first. If the base of the pusher being checked is flat, this indicates that it is badly worn and needs to be replaced | 10.9y. If there are scuffs and scratches on the base of the pusher, both the pusher itself and the camshaft must be replaced |
10. In case of reuse of the pushers removed from the engine, install them in the same holes from which they were removed. Dip tappets in oil to eliminate air bubbles. Apply a layer of molybdenum grease to each of the pushers before installing them.
11. The remaining assembly points are performed in reverse order.
12. After starting the engine, check for oil leakage.