Helpful Hint: If possible, work on a special rotating stand that provides access to the engine from all sides, as it is very difficult to secure the engine from moving when loosening fastening parts that are tightened with a high torque.
1. Remove the engine from the vehicle (see "Removal and installation the engine").
2. Remove the starter (see "Removal and installation the starter").
3. Remove the generator (see "Removal and installation the generator").
4. Disconnect the gearbox from the engine by unscrewing the bolts that secure it to the engine (see "Removal and installation of a manual gearbox").
5. Remove the clutch from the flywheel (see "Removal and installation the clutch").
6. Remove the flywheel (see "Removal, defect detection and installation of the flywheel").
7. Remove the timing belt (see "Replacing the timing belt and its tension roller") and the rear cover of the drive (see "Removal and installation the oil pump").
8. Remove the cylinder head (Ohm. "Replacing the cylinder head gasket").
9. Remove the oil pan (see "Replacing the oil pan seal"),
10. Using a screwdriver, remove the rear crankshaft oil seal from the cylinder block socket.
11. Remove the oil receiver, oil pump and the gasket installed underneath it (see "Removal and installation the oil pump").
12. ...and also a water pump (see "Replacing the water pump").
13. Remove the oil filter (see "Changing engine oil and oil filter").
Helpful Hint: When disassembling the crank mechanism and piston group, mark the pistons, connecting rods, main and connecting rod bearing shells so that when reassembling, you can install them in their original places if they are in working order.
14. Unscrew the two bolts securing the connecting rod cover of any cylinder, move the connecting rod cover from its seat using light hammer blows through a wooden spacer...
15. ...and remove the cover with the insert.
Warning: The cover and connecting rod are marked with symbols (triangle icon and number). When assembling the engine, the number and the symbol should be located on the same side. However, the connecting rod and cover are not marked with cylinder numbers. Be sure to mark them in any way possible (for example, by kerning), so that they can be installed in their original places during assembly, since the connecting rod caps are not interchangeable (the connecting rod is machined together with the cover).
16. Press with a wooden block (with a hammer handle) on the connecting rod...
17. ...and remove the piston with the connecting rod from the cylinder towards the upper plane of the cylinder block.
18. Similarly, remove the pistons and connecting rods of the remaining cylinders, turning the crankshaft to access the connecting rod cap bolts.
Helpful Hint: Turn the crankshaft using a wrench on the chamfer at its front end.
19. Remove the two bolts securing any main bearing cap. Separate the cap from its seat with light hammer blows through a wooden spacer...
20. ...and remove the cover with the lower insert.
Warning: Main bearing caps are designed for one specific cylinder block only (the covers are processed together with the block). The covers are not interchangeable. The covers are numbered according to the order in which they are installed, counting from the front of the engine (there is no number on the cover of the fifth main bearing). The letters "VK" cast on the covers must be directed towards the left side of the engine during installation.
21. Unscrew the bolts, remove the remaining main bearing caps and remove the crankshaft.
22. Remove the bearing shells from all connecting rods...
23. ...and from their lids...
24. ...from the main bearing caps...
25. ...and from all beds in the cylinder block.
Note: The increased thickness of the third main bearing cap liner has flanges on the side ends that act as thrust half rings limiting the axial movement of the crankshaft.
Similar flanges are made on the upper shell of the third main bearing.
26. Release the upper compression ring...
27. ...and take it off.
28. Remove the lower compression ring in the same way.
29. Unclamp and remove the top ring...
30. ...expander...
31. ...and the lower ring of the composite oil scraper ring.
32. Press the pin out of the piston bosses and the upper head of the connecting rod.
Note: Do not heat the connecting rod before pressing out the pin. To avoid damaging the piston, use wooden shims when pressing out the pin, as shown in the photo.
Helpful Hint: Mark the parts. If they are not damaged and show little wear, they can be used in their original locations.
(The original article is on the website «ChevyMan»)